Men’s headgear in Central Asia
For people in Central Asia above a certain age, the hat is more than just a head covering that protects the head from the sun and rain or keeps it warm when needed. In Central Asia, headgear is a status symbol among men, as it was in the past.
Men’s headgear in Central Asia
Rhymes in History

Men’s headgear in Central Asia

Kyrgyzstan's popular ak-kalpak hat (Photo: AFP/Vyacheslav Oseledko)

Szabolcs Veres 16/05/2023 06:00

For people in Central Asia above a certain age, the hat is more than just a head covering that protects the head from the sun and rain or keeps it warm when needed. In Central Asia, headgear is a status symbol among men, as it was in the past. You do not have to spend a lot of time in a Central Asian country to tell exactly which country you are in by looking at men's headgear, because each nation in the region has its own distinctive headgear, which can be flat or pointed, gilded or furry. The daily wearing of these headgear is strange to European eyes, but in Central Asia it is quite common.

In the countries of Central Asia, various headgear and hats are still popularly worn in everyday life. The material, colour, shape and decoration of the "hats" are present in an amazing variety. All Central Asian headgear has its own style and regional characteristics. However, these "hats" are also a status symbol and refer to the age or gender of the person and their role in society.
Turkmenistan (Photo: AFP/Mustafa Ozer)
Telpek

The Turkmen are most easily recognised by their large, woolly skins. The hats, usually made of black sheepskin, are shaggy and surprisingly practical. Younger people wear white telpeks, while older people wear grey or black ones. The practical advantage of traditional headgear plays a role here, as it has heat-insulating properties that are of great importance in Turkmenistan, as the country's geographic location means that temperatures are often extreme in both winter and summer.

Ak-kalpak

The ak-kalpak or kalpak takes its name from the Kyrgyz word "ak" (white) and the Turkic word "kalpak" (hat, blanket). The Kyrgyz ak hats are more than just a hat. The shape and colour of the headgear symbolise the snow-capped peaks and the vitality of the mountainous country. The ak-kalpak is the most sacred part of the Kyrgyz national costume. Many everyday expressions refer to the meaning of the headgear, for example: If you lose your ak cap, you lose your head, says a Kyrgyz proverb.
The ak-kalpak is an elongated cap sewn together from four pieces of white wool felt, the lower part of which forms a small brim.

Ak-kalpak are usually decorated with black embroidery and a matching lapel; the plain white version is reserved for certain ceremonies. According to UNESCO, there are more than 80 types of ak-kalpak.
Although Kazakhs also often wear ak-kalpaks, they also make their national hats from fur and feathers. Kazakh men wear a round, warm cap, usually decorated with mink or raccoon fur. In harsh winters they wear a tymak, a fur cap with three long sides, two of which protect the ears and a longer and wider back side protects the neck.
Doppa hats in Uzbekistan (Photo: iStock)
The skullcap

The Uzbek skullcap, known as duppi (doppi, doppa), is not only a garment but also a part of Uzbek folk culture and is worn by men, women and children. These national headpieces are made of soft or hard material, decorated with embroidery or beads and have a round or square shape. Each region has developed its own style, which is passed down from generation to generation.

Nowadays, the skullcap in Uzbekistan is seen only on special occasions - family celebrations, funerals. However, a few decades ago the skullcap was the most important headgear in Central Asia.

Probably the most widespread male skullcap comes from Chust in the Ferghana Valley. It is black and decorated with 16 ornamental arches representing the strong gates through which the enemy cannot enter to kill the wearer of the skullcap. Skullcaps are also worn in Tajikistan. Zoroastrian and Indo-Iranian symbols such as fire or the swastika are typically woven into Tajik headgear. So the inhabitants of the Pamir Mountains wear round and flat caps.


The author is a researcher of the Eurasia Center of John von Neumann University

We use cookies on our website. If you consent to their use, we use them to measure and analyze the use of the website.
Information and Settings